Interior Painting Checklist

How to use this checklist

Painting a room goes smoothly when the decisions are made before the first brushstroke. This checklist follows the job in order: planning, supplies, conditions, prep, painting, cleanup and a final check. Tick each stage off before moving to the next, and skip anything that does not apply to your room.

Before you buy: planning decisions

• Colour: Test your top choices on the wall itself, or on large samples, and look at them in morning, afternoon and evening light. A small paper swatch is only a starting point.
• Paint type: Water-based acrylic or latex paint is the usual choice for interior walls. It cleans up with soap and water and dries relatively quickly.
• Sheen: Flat or matte hides imperfections and suits low-traffic walls and ceilings. Eggshell and satin handle more cleaning. Semi-gloss is commonly used on trim and doors. Kitchens and bathrooms generally call for a more washable sheen than a bedroom ceiling does (see ideas to brighten up a kitchen for colour and finish ideas in that room).
• Primer: A separate primer is usually worth considering for new drywall, stains, large colour changes or glossy surfaces. Paint-and-primer products are often fine over sound, already painted walls.
• Quantity: A gallon commonly covers somewhere around 350 to 400 square feet per coat, but check the label. Measure the wall area you are actually painting, plan for two coats, and keep a little leftover for touch-ups.

If you have questions about any of these choices, see our answers to common interior paint questions.

Supplies checklist

Application tools

• Paintbrush for cutting in (an angled sash brush is a common pick)
• Roller frame and roller covers suited to your wall texture
• Extension pole
• Paint tray and liners
• Small container to carry paint while on a ladder
• Stir stick and can opener

Prep and protection

• Drop cloths (canvas or old towels stay put better than slippery plastic on floors)
• Painter’s tape
• Spackle or filler and a putty knife
• Fine-grit sandpaper or a sanding block
• Screwdriver for switch plates and vent covers
• Cleaning cloths, mild detergent and water
• Ladder

Extras

• Primer, if needed
• Apron or old clothes
• Plastic wrap or a brush cover to keep brushes from drying between coats
• Tape measure

Check conditions first

Paint dries and cures best in moderate temperature and humidity with some air movement. High humidity can slow drying and cause tackiness or adhesion problems. If your room is damp, or the weather is very humid, read interior painting and humidity before you start. Open windows or use fans where conditions allow, and follow the temperature range printed on the paint can.

Prep the room

1. Clear the space. Move small furniture out. Push larger pieces to the centre and cover them.
2. Remove hardware. Take off switch plates, outlet covers and wall hangings. Keep screws taped to the back of each cover so nothing is lost.
3. Clean the walls. Wipe away dust, grease and grime with mild detergent and water, and let the walls dry. Paint does not bond well to dirty surfaces.
4. Repair damage. Fill nail holes and cracks with spackle, let it dry, then sand flush and wipe off the dust.
5. Scuff glossy surfaces. Lightly sand previously glossy trim or walls so the new paint has something to grip.
6. Protect edges and floors. Lay drop cloths and tape off areas you do not want painted, such as hardware and intricate trim.
7. Prime where needed. Spot-prime patches and stains, or prime whole walls if your plan calls for it.

If you find peeling paint, stains or signs of mildew during prep, deal with them before painting. Our guide to interior wall paint problems and fixes explains how.

Painting order

1. Stir the paint thoroughly.
2. Cut in with a brush around the ceiling line, corners, window and door frames and above baseboards. A band of a few inches is typical.
3. Roll the walls while the cut-in edges are still workable, so the brushed and rolled areas blend. Work in manageable sections and keep a wet edge.
4. Let the first coat dry for the time stated on the can. In humid or cool conditions, allow longer.
5. Apply a second coat if needed for even colour and coverage.
6. Paint trim and doors last, if they are part of the job.

If you are painting the ceiling as well, it is generally done first so drips do not land on finished walls.

Cleanup and finishing

• Remove painter’s tape once the paint is no longer wet but before it fully hardens, pulling slowly at an angle. If the paint has formed a film across the tape, score along the edge first with a blade.
• Wash brushes and rollers with warm water until it runs clear, if you used water-based paint.
• Reseal the paint can tightly and label it with the room and colour name.
• Wait until the paint is dry before replacing switch plates and returning furniture.
• Dispose of leftover paint and rinse water according to your local rules rather than pouring it down a drain or on the ground.

Final inspection checklist

Look at the walls in daylight and again with lamps on, and check for:

• Thin or patchy areas, especially at edges and corners
• Drips, runs or roller marks
• Missed spots near trim and ceiling lines
• Uneven sheen or lap marks
• Tape pulled away cleanly with no peeling edges

Most of these can be fixed with a light touch-up once the paint has dried. For anything that keeps recurring, see interior wall paint problems and fixes.

Common questions

How long does it take to paint a room? An average room often takes most of a day when you include prep, two coats and drying time between them. Larger rooms, extensive repairs or slow-drying conditions take longer.

Do I need painter’s tape? It is useful for hardware, metal fittings and detailed trim. Some experienced painters cut in freehand along ceilings and walls with a good brush and a steady hand.

Where can I find more answers? Our page on interior paint questions answered covers colour, sheen, primer and project logistics.